The Oldcorollas FAQ
An FAQ dealing with KE1x to KE7x Toyota Corollas
Supplement to http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/oldcorollas

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This excellent article was written by Aaron Willis (te51@sbcglobal.net) for this FAQ, but is an excellent starting point for any second hand car. Many thanks to AW for the time and effort spent compiling this.

I just bought an old car - what do I do first?

    Buying a used car usually seems like a good idea - to me, at least - and is really the only way to buy a classic car, so most of us have no choice but to buy used.  The problem with buying used is that you're getting someone else's old car that they have had enough of.  This usually means it has at least a couple of problems that the previous owner(s) didn't want to deal with.  Almost certainly the POs were not enthusiasts and so have not been as meticulous as a lot of us are (or try to be) in maintaining our cars.  And it can get even worse when you buy some else's aborted project car, as you can find yourself trying to put their mysterious pile of mismatched and modified parts back together again.  So you buy an old Corolla or Datsun or Mustang or whatever and, assuming you're not doing a ground-up restoration on it, you want to start driving it.  Before you do, take the time to give it a thorough inspection and mechanical checkup and a bit of attention to the aesthetics, and you'll end up with a car that looks and feels much newer than it is - plus it will be far safer and perform a lot better too.
    The usual caveats apply.  First, have a shop manual.  They don't have to be expensive to be good, though the factory books are invariably the best.  Haynes books tend to be my favorites as they are basically condensed versions of the factory manuals.  Whatever the case, don't take on any serious repair work without having proper technical information available.  Finally, use your head.  This is a series of suggestions based on methods I have found to be useful and helpful, not a comprehensive list.  As such I cannot accept responsibility for any damage that occurs as a result of doing anything listed below.  I also cannot accept responsibility for not including anything that your own car may need to be safe.  Anything you do, or do not do, is your choice and nobody can keep you safe but yourself.  Be safe and use common sense.
    This list is compiled in the order I'd suggest attacking things in.  It starts with getting the car clean enough to work on and be in, and looking good enough not to be an eyesore to everyone else.  Next it addresses the basic lubrication and cooling issues so that the engine can be run if necesary, brake, chassis, and lighting issues to make the car safe to drive, and a tune-up so the engine runs as well as possible.  After that it goes into less critical issues, from making the windows go up and down more easily to detail painting.  Following this list start to finish would comprise a very comprehensive tune-up of just about everything on the car, and could turn a real dog into a very decent car both to drive and to look at.


Clean it out
    Depending on what you buy and from whom you buy it, you might have a car that is already pretty clean, or you might get something with a trunk and/or interior full of somebody else's garbage.  If you're like me you usually buy cars that are cheap enough or old enough to be really thrashed and have sometimes been off the road for years, and they can end up being used as storage sheds.  Before you turn a wrench, the first thing to do is clean the car out.  Remove anything that isn't bolted down - whether it is part of the car or not.  Remove the jack and spare tire, trunk mat, owner's manual, etc.  Get everything out of the trunk, the interior, the ashtrays and glovebox and all the storage bins and cubbies, even the oil bottles stashed under the hood.  Have a garbage can handy so anything you're not keeping can get thrown away immediately rather than piling up around the car.  Set anything that belongs to the car aside and when it is all assembled, clean or wash the good stuff and box it all up so it can be stored neatly.


Vacuum the interior and trunk
    Having removed all the loose parts and debris, now get out the shop-vac and really get the dirt out.  Get into the trunk and vacuum all the dirt out of the nooks and crannies, the wells on the side of the trunk, etc.  I actually like to remove the drain plugs and wash the trunk out (if it is just unlined painted metal) with soap and water.  Then vacuum the seats, then the carpets.  Going over the seats and carpets with a stiff brush like a pot-scrubbing brush before vacuuming them will really loosen the dirt.  Vacuum under the seats, inside all of the ashtrays, the glovebox, and any storage compartments the car has.  If there is anything stuck inside (chewing gum, etc) scrape it out as well as you can.  The point here is to get everything out so the car is nicer to work on, and it's also encouraging to see the good stuff start to emerge from the filthy pile of crap you drove or towed home.


Wash the exterior
    First knock all of the pine needles, leaves, feathers, parking tickets, etc off of the car as they are much easier to remove when dry.  Vacuum all the loose junk out of the cowl vents and from behind the front fenders.  While you're at it, vacuum any leaves or garbage from under the hood as well.  Get yourself a bucket, a hose with a high-pressure nozzle, some car shampoo and a wash mitt and soak the car gently but throughly with water.  Now turn the water up and blast as much of the junk as possible from the car.  Start at the rain gutters, then the cowl vent area, then the cavity behind the front fenders, all the wheelwells, behind the bumpers, and any other place that could collect mud, leaves, or other debris.  If you can see it, blast it.  If you can't see it, blast it too.  If you don't wash it out now it's just going to make it that much worse when you go to work on that part of the car.  Besides, removing all the accumulated crap makes it a lot easier to be sure the sheetmetal isn't rusted through.  If you have a local automated car wash that has an undercar wash feature, it might be a good time to put the car through that as well.
    Once you get rid of the heavy stuff, rinse the whole car again, top to bottom, with plain water.  Then put some car shampoo and fresh water in the bucket and wash the car, top to bottom, with the wash mitt.  This is much easier if done in the shade.  Wash one panel at a time, then rinse, then wash the next panel.  Work from the rooftop down to the rocker panels.  If you're careful you can (and should) even wash the doorjambs without getting the interior wet.  Now clean the wheels and tires with wheel cleaner appropriate for the type of wheel the car has.  For the wheels I like to use a stiff bristled brush, like a parts cleaning brush, but you can use a paintbrush if you like, or whatever fits the wheel best.  Whatever you use, be sure the wheels are cool and out of direct sunlight when you use any wheel cleaner.  Scrub the tire sidewalls while you're there.  Rinse throughly - any cleaning chemicals left on the wheel will eventually etch or dull the finish.


Clean the engine and engine bay
    Like the wheels, the engine has to be cool before you clean it.  If the car is carbureted you might want to clean the carburetor first: just remove the air cleaner and spray the carb with carburetor cleaner.  Just try to spray the junk off the outside of it for now.  Now reinstall the air cleaner and clean the rest of the engine.  There are plenty of aerosol engine cleaners available at any auto parts store - I usually go with Gunk or any other familiar brand name.  Try a few and see what you like.  Be careful not to soak the distributor, carburetor, etc, but get everything else good and coated with a nice thick layer of engine cleaner.  Be careful around any decals or paint that you want to keep because it may fade or otherwise destroy them.  This stuff is powerful, so wear gloves and use common sense.  As the can says, use a brush to remove heavy deposits.
    Once that has been allowed to work for several minutes, rinse it off throroughly, again keeping the water away from the carburetor and distributor.  Now you can clean the rest of the engine bay.  I usually use about a 4:1 mixture of Castrol Super Clean and water, and a stiff, parts-cleaning type brush.  Super Clean is extremely caustic - WEAR GLOVES.  Latex gloves or nitrile exam gloves are fine.  If you like, spray straight Super Clean onto the really filthy surfaces first - just be aware that it WILL dull most painted and anodized finishes.  If you want to preserve a finished surface, don't let Super Clean sit on it for long.  Take your brush and scrub every surface you can reach.  Starting at the top and working down usually works best.  In an engine compartment I'll usually pick the dirtiest corner and work my way from that corner around the bay in a circle.  Rinsing as you go will help prevent dulling of surfaces as well as let you see the results of your work sooner.  Once you've cleaned everything, rinse it all again and look for anything you may have missed.  Hit the grimy stuff again with the brush and more cleaner, then rinse it and call it good.

    Now that all that is done, the car should be much cleaner all the way around.  Not only is it a lot nicer to look at, it will also be a lot more pleasant to work on, in, or under.  Hopefully you now have a car that looks decent enough that your wife (girlfriend, mother, landlord, what have you) doesn't resent its presence, you need to address the mechanical issues before the car can be safely driven.  Every car is different, so this list assumes that you know nothing about the present condition of the car you bought - not to imply a lack of mechical knowledge, just a lack of information.  It also assumes that you bought a car that you want to drive, not immediately perform an engine swap or full restoration on.


Engine Oil, Filters, Coolant, Hoses and Belts, Battery
    Before you even start the car, check the oil.  If the oil is not clean and fresh and you're not planning on replacing the engine right away, you might as well change the oil and filter.  Use the appropriate weight of oil for your car based on what the manufacturer recommends, the age and mileage of the car, and the climate in which you live.  For what it's worth, many Toyota people express a preference for genuine Toyota oil filters.  Likewise have a look at the air and fuel filters.  If they are dirty or look like they've been there for a while, replace them.
    Take a look at the radiator and heater hoses and the drive belts.  Belts will usually show cracks and hoses will start to swell, crack, or dry out.  If anything looks suspect, replace it.  Make sure all the hose clamps are tight.  This is also a good time to take a look at the thermostat: make sure it is correct for your car and climate, and check that it functions properly by placing it in a pan of boiling water.
    Check the coolant in the radiator.  If it's dirty, replace it.  If it's low, top it up.  Make sure you use the correct type of coolant for your car.  Perform a pressure check on the system if you can to make sure you don't have a coolant leak somewhere.  Also take a look inside the radiator to make sure there isn't excessive corrosion.
    Next have a look at the battery.  If it has removeable caps, top it up with distilled water if need be.  Take a look at the terminals and cables.  Many old cars have terrible, loose, filthy, corroded old cables and terminals.  Replace anything rotten (I like brass marine-type terminals and cables with eyelets on the end as they are easy to disconnect quickly without tools) and clean anything you're going to keep with a solution of baking soda and hot water.  Use a battery terminal brush to get the hard stuff off.  Reassemble it all and brush on some battery terminal protectant or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion from returning.


Gear Oil or ATF, Diff Lube, and Universal Joints
    Now it's time to get under the car, unless you have an automatic transmission.  Check the ATF level (this usually means with the car running) and inspect the fluid for color and smell.  If it is at all dirty or smells burnt, replace it, which usually means removing the pan to drain it.  If you have to remove the pan you may as well replace the filter as well.
    If you have a manual transmission, get under the car and check the gear oil level.  It's a good time to replace it if it looks or smells old.  Same with the rear axle's gear lube.  Also grasp the driveshaft and give it a twist to make sure the universal joints are OK.  Lube them if they have grease fittings.


Tire Size and Type, Tread Depth, Sidewalls, and Pressure
    The older and more neglected a car gets, the more likely it is to have a mismatched set of tires.  Make sure yours are all the same size, the same brand and model, and have decent tread depth and an even wear pattern.  Even if all the above conditions have been met, tires crack as they age, and an otherwise perfect set of tires can be unsafe if the tread or sidewalls are cracked.  Assuming the tires on your car are decent, make sure they are all inflated properly.  I usually go somewhere between the pressure suggested by the car manufacturer and the maximum rated pressure on the tire sidewall, depending on what I am doing with the car.  High speed driving calls for higher pressures than scooting down to the corner store.


Wheel Bearings, Steering Box Adjustment, Front End Inspection
    Often neglected but pretty important nonetheless.  Make sure your wheel bearings are adjusted properly by jacking up the car until the wheels are off the ground (USE JACKSTANDS!), then grasp a tire at the top and bottom and try to rock it back and forth.  If there is much play, you'll need to adjust the bearings, and if you're unable to adjust them up you'll have to replace them.  Remember that replacing them will also probably mean replacing the hub seal behind the inside wheel bearing.  Whether the bearings need adjustment or not it's a good idea to pop the dust caps off and visually make sure that the bearings have plenty of grease to roll around in.
    With the front wheels off the ground and the car safely on stands, adjust the steering box.  Your manual will give you the details - just get it snug enough so that there is no play in the wheel, but no drag on it either.  While the car is on stands take a look at the front end componentry and make sure the ball joints, bushings, and steering linkage are all in good shape.  If not, you'll want to replace it before driving the car.  I like polyurethane bushings for everything except my wife's car, just because they transfer more road noise to the body than rubber ones do, which gets annoying on long drives.  For anything I drive, I like the tighter feel poly bushings give, and they never wear out or decompose like rubber does.


Brake & Hydraulics Inspection and Adjustment
    You're going to have to get the wheels off and start getting dirty.  Assuming discs at least in the front, visually inspect the pad thickness.  Anything much less than 1/8" usually calls for immediate replacement.  Also check the rotors for grooving or other damage, and for thickness with a micrometer (or at least a caliper) and replace them if they are close to or below their minimum spec.  Check the drums and shoes the same way - see that there is adequate material on the shoes and that the drum is below maximum internal diameter.  Take a look too at the calipers, master cylinder, and wheel and slave cylinders.  If there's any evidence of leakage or corrosion (i.e. the piston won't retract into the caliper), rebuild or replace the parts as necessary.  Check the rubber brake hoses for cracks and fatigue and replace anything that is not safe.  Finally, adjust the rear brakes up nice and snug so that the shoes just graze the drum as you rotate the wheel, which does wonders for a drum brake equipped car's pedal feel and braking action.


Flush and Bleed Brakes and Clutch
    Having got the brake system in shape, it's time to get some nice fresh fluid into it.  This is a good idea even if nothing else needs replacement.  I'm not going to give you step-by-step instructions on bleeding brakes - just make sure you keep the master cylinder full of fresh fluid, and flush it till new fluid comes out at each bleeder.  Start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards it.  Check the fluid level one last time and you're done.


Parking Brake Adjustment
    Most of this should be taken care of by the adjustment of the rear brakes, but if you still need to adjust the parking brake, do it now at the handle, pedal or cable.  Make a note if necessary to test the brake's effectiveness when you drive the car.


Lights, Horn, Wipers, Accessories, Fuses
    Assuming the battery is in decent shape and the car can be started if necessary, have an assistant try all the lights while you look at the car.  Check the parking lights, headlights (low and high beam), turn signals, emergency flashers, brake lights, license plate lights, side markers, and reverse lights.  See that the horn works and that the wipers and washers function properly.  Replace the wiper blades if they're not effective.  Repainting dull or faded wiper blades is easy and makes a surprising difference in the appearance of a car, but stay with an appropriate color (i.e. semi-flat black or dull silver), not bright yellow.
    This is a good time to polish up dull taillight and marker light lenses, and aluminum polish works surprisingly well on plastic lenses.  If the lenses can be removed it's also smart to polish or repaint the reflectors underneath to produce a brighter light.  Replace any bulbs and fuses that are burnt out and repair any wiring problems involving these systems.


Valve Clearance, Ignition Timing, Idle Speed & Idle Mixture Adjustments
    This series of adjustments can really make a huge difference in the way an older engine runs.  As cars age they are less and less likely to be kept in a proper state of tune.  Making all these adjustments can return a lot of life to a neglected car.
    You can now adjust the valves if they are to be adjusted cold.  Remove the rocker cover and set the valve lash as per your repair manual.  Before setting the valve clearance is isn't a bad idea to torque the head bolts just to be sure.  On an inline four with a 1-3-4-2 firing order I simply adjust the valve that is a mirror image of the one that is open - i.e. if the #1 intake valve is fully open, I adjust the #4 valve.  If the #3 exhaust valve is fully open, I adjust the #2 exhaust valve, and so on.  Replace the rocker cover gasket with a new one if there is any evidence of leakage.
    While the engine is still cold it's a good time to look at the spark plugs and plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and the PCV valve and vacuum hoses.  If your car has them, inspect and adjust the distributor points.  Replace anything that looks suspect.  Be sure and gap the plugs to the correct spec, and use anti-sieze on the threads and dielectric grease in the plug boots.  This makes it so much easier to get the wires off the plugs and the plugs out of the engine in the future.
    If the valves are to be adjusted hot, start the engine and warm it up to operating temp for at least ten minutes.  This is a good opportunity to set the ignition timing once the engine reaches operating temperature.  This is usually done with the vacuum advance canister disconnected.  Make sure the engine is running at the correct speed given for adjusting the timing and adjust it.  Revving the engine with the timing light connected will show whether the mechical advance mechaism is still working properly - the timing should advance beyond base timing as the RPM rises.  Applying vacuum to the advance can should also advance the timing.  Both if these items can fail over time.  Repair them as necessary before moving on.  And finally you can adjust the valves as described above if you need the engine hot to do so.
    With ignition timing and valve clearance set, move on to the carburetor.  Assuming it isn't obviously in need of repair, give it a good thorough spray of carb and choke cleaner if it still has any gunk stuck to it.  The linkage is your main concern here as it often gets gummed up over time.  Work the linkage back and forth by hand several times to make sure that the throttle operates smoothly and closes firmly when you release it.  Have an assistant hold the accelerator to the floor and adjust the linkage or cable to fully open the throttle only when the pedal is pressed against the floor.  This reduces stress on the throttle cable or linkage.  I usually set them just a hair loose, so that the butterfly isn't quite fully open, as I don't want to break a throttle cable, and that last two degrees of open butterfly will not be missed.
    Now that the throttle opens and closes properly, start the engine again and let it idle for a few minutes to get it back up to full operating temperature.  Set the idle speed according to your manual, then adjust the idle mixture screw.  Adjust the idle speed screw again if you need to, double-check the idle mixture, and call it good for now.
    Valve lash and ignition timing are two things that are independant of other parameters, so they should always be adjusted first.  Carburetor adjustments, on the other hand, will change when things like valve lash or ignition timing are adjusted, so always do the carburetor(s) last.  If your car is fuel injected, you probably won't be able to adjust the mixture but you should be able to do everything else listed here.


Door, Trunk, and Hood Latch & Hinge Alignment and Lubrication
    This is pretty self-explanatory.  Make sure that all the doors, hood, trunk, etc open and close as they should.  If a latch or release cable can be lubed, lube it (use door-ease or similar waxy lubricant for latches and a light oil for cables and linkages).  Adjust anything that needs to be adjusted to make the panels line up and open and close with ease.  Short sections of heater hose can be substituted for worn-out rubber hood height adjusters.  If any doors or lids need new weatherstripping, now is the time to replace it.


Window Regulator Cleaning & Lubrication
    You'll have to remove the interior door panels for this one, but it is worth it.  Over time window regulators get pretty well gummed up with dried grease and dirt and windows can get pretty difficult to roll up and down.  This just leads to accelerated regulator wear and broken parts.  Get the glass out as per the shop manual and thoroughly clean the tracks and guides with a solvent that will break down the dried-up goo.  Clean every surface that slides or pivots on anything else, including the spiral spring on the regulator.  If you can't dismantle it, soak it in solvent and work the linkage back and forth to free it up, then flush it with solvent again, preferably several times.  Once everything is spotlessly clean, lube it all - I use an aerosol pentrating white lithium grease from Zep, which is very light - and reassemble it.
    While you have the door card off, you might also clean, lube and adjust the door handle and lock linkage and mechanism.  Fighting to get out of the car is no fun, and really tends to anger any female companions you may be trying to impress.


Seat Track Adjustment and Lubrication
    Not much to discuss here, as "adjustment" usually means tightening any loose bolts.  Make sure the seat is tight on the rails and the rails are tight on the floor.  Shoot some appropriate grease in (I'd use the spray white grease here too), double-check that the action is smooth and locks firmly in place and you're good to go.


Pedal Box Adjustment and Lubrication
    Get under the dash and set the clutch and brake pedal heights with the adjuster bolts.  Set the pedal freeplay by adjusting the linkage (usually an adjustable pushrod).  Lube the pivots - again, something like a light grease would work well here.  Also lube the throttle cable and clutch cable if so equipped.  While you're down here, take a stiff brush and some soapy water and thoroughly scrub the pedals.  If the rubbers are worn, spend a few bucks for new ones.  This perks up a tired interior more than you'd think it would.


Shifter Rebuild
    Many cars have shifters that suffer from time and high miles.  Replacing the bushings or bearings in your shifter or shift linkage can tighten up the action and make shifting much more precise.  There may be harder bushings available if you prefer a really crisp shifter feel at the possible expense of NVH and comfort.  Even if you don't have to replace anything, this is another linkage that will benefit from a cleaning and lubrication.  I'd use a heavier grease here, something similar to wheel bearing grease, as there can be some pretty aggressive pushing and shoving going on.


Wipe Down Interior Surfaces, Apply Protectant
    Just as the title suggests, this is the equivalent of a basic wash & wax, but for the interior plastic and vinyl surfaces.  Wipe them down with a damp cloth and a little soap if you like, dry them with a clean terryclotch towel, and then go after the nooks and crannies.  Clean things like the air vents and edges of panels with cotton swabs (it makes a real difference!).  If you are going for a serious detail job, use an old toothbrush to really get the dirt up.  Cleaning with a toothbrush may sound silly, but the bristles are just right for gently scrubbing dirt and grime off of textured plastic and vinyl surfaces.
    Once all the dirt is gone, apply a protectant of your choice.  I prefer 303 for most plastic and vinyl, though it has a horrible smell which luckily goes away pretty quickly.  You may find other products you like better, depending on the degree of shine you find most attractive.  Be thorough - get the windshield pillar trim, kick panels, weatherstripping, etc as well as the dash and door panels.


Clean and Detail Glass Inside & Out
    Not as simple or easy as it sounds.  The first step is to get rid of all the political stickers, racing decals, parking permits, etc with a razor blade.  If the car has old bubbled or discolored window tint - and if it was being driven in the '80s, it almost certainly does - remove that too.  You can get directions for that by doing a Google search, but basically it involves ammonia, plastic wrap, sunlight, and razor blades.  Naturally, caution must be exercised when working around defroster grids and they are notoriously fragile.
    Once the windows are clear of any unwanted additions they can be cleaned.  Of course you can start with a basic window cleaner such as Windex, but be careful not to use anything with ammonia in it on window tint.  Chances are good that there will be water spots and films of unidentifiable substances that Windex will not remove, and for that I can heartily recommend a product called Nothin's Better (see http://www.nothinsbetter.com/).  Don't let the modest website fool you - this stuff does exactly what they claim.  It just flat WORKS.  It is a microfine powder made of ground seashells of all things.  It will, when used with a damp cloth and elbow grease, take just about anything off of glass surfaces without scratching anything.  It will take a couple of hours to do all the glass in the car, so take your time and be thorough.  It is worth the effort.  Clean glass makes any drive much nicer as well as safer and adds greatly to the car's appearance.


Detailing the Rest of the Interior
    Lots to do here.  Firstly, old instument panels get pretty ugly, but basic paint detailing products clean them up very well.  Remove the lenses and polish them with a fine polishing compound (not a harsh rubbing compound) to get rid of a lot of scratches and haze.  A mild cleaning wax adds a higher gloss and further polishes the lens.  If you like, you can also touch up the paint on instrument needles at this time.
    If there are any knobs or switches that are less than fresh-looking, remove them and really give them a good scrubbing with a toothbrush.  Some switches can be lightly lubricated with a light grease or penetrating oil for a smoother action.  As with other plastic parts, finish with a little 303 or other protectant.  Naturally you wouldn't use any protectant on steering wheel rims or pedal pads as that makes them slippery and unsafe.
    Look around the interior - are there any missing parts that need to be replaced?  If everything is present, you can even repaint worn emblems and icons such as trim pieces on the dash, or the embossed icon on the cigarette lighter, or the text on the door lock handle.  Just be sure to clean the hell out of it before painting (Super Clean is great for this as well).


Repairing, Removing or Replacing Broken Exterior Lenses, Missing Trim, etc
    Almost every used car has a few broken or missing bits of trim.  Emblems get broken, turn signals get cracked, things fall off the car.  Take a walk around the car and see what needs attention in this area.  If you're not going to use the trim anyway, just remove whatever's left.


Detailing and Painting Under the Hood
    Old engines get pretty ugly.  Hopefully you got the engine bay fairly clean the first time around, but if not, clean it again thoroughly.  Don't forget the underside of the hood itself - it's amazing how much grime can accumulate there.  Take a good look around and see what's ugly.  Does the air cleaner or valve cover(s) need a fresh coat of paint or a good polishing job?  How about the exhaust manifold(s), master cylinders, or the radiator tank?  Is there a corner of the bay that has started to rust?  Does the wiring harness need to be cleaned and detailed with some protectant?  Maybe the spark plug wires aren't neatly laid out - straighten them up with some plug wire separators.


Detailing, Polishing, and Waxing the Body
    Assuming the car is still clean and dry from the last wash it got, now you can give the paintwork and chrome some attention.  Be sure to do all this in the shade while the car is cool to the touch.
    Depending on how and where it was used, your car may have scratches or chips that need touched up.  The dealership should have, or be able to get, the correct touch-up paint.  If they can't get it, the aftermarket (i.e. Duplicolor) may offer the correct color, or a local paint store dealing in automotive products may even be able to mix you something with your paint code.  Be sure to prep anything you paint correctly - clean it thoroughly with an appropriate brush, prime it, etc.  Again, a paint store that sells automotive products will be able to help you here with advice and the tools to do the job.  Once the paint is applied, let it cure - this may take weeks - and then block-sand the entire area for a smooth finish.  If you need to touch up any nicks or scratches in the paint it should be done before the car gets polished or waxed.  Bear in mind that the paint will have to cure for some time before you polish or wax it.
    If the paint is in good shape, proceed with the polishing compound.  Follow the directions on the bottle for this.  After you've polished the paint, apply a good quality wax to the paint and to any chrome-plated parts.  Make every effort to keep polishing compounds and waxes off any plastic and rubber parts, as it can be difficult to remove.  It may be easier to mask those parts off than to try to avoid them altogether.


Cleaning Wheels and Tires, Polishing Wheels, Applying Tire Protectant
    This is really two seperate steps.  To clean the wheels properly requires a water rinse, but the wheels must be dry to be polished.  If you have to clean them again, use the correct wheel cleaner and an appropriate brush or cloth.  I have cut down children's toothbrushes to get between the spokes of mesh-style wheels because that was the only way to really get all the brake dust off the wheels.  Do whatever you have to do to get them really clean.
    If the wheels are clean enough (assuming you did a thorough job when you cleaned them the first time), go ahead and polish them with an appropriate polish.  Naturally the choice of polish depends on the material the wheels are made of (generally aluminum or steel) and the finish on them (machined, polished, chromed, or painted).  On older aluminum wheels you'll find that wet-sanding them first with some emery paper (progressively finer, from 400ish to 1500 grit paper) before applying polish will remove the corroded surface material and let you bring out their best shine.  Some wheels, generally chromed and painted ones, will do better with just a coat of wax than with any sort of polish.  Take your time, do the job right, and the wheels will look their best no matter what style they are.


Polishing Aluminum Parts
    Like aluminum wheels, other aluminum parts can use a good polishing.  Things like grille surrounds and rain gutter trim are often made of aluminum or stainless steel, both of which can benefit from a bit of effort with the appropriate polishing product and some elbow grease.  If you have the time, you can also attack parts like cast aluminum timing covers and rocker covers, but be aware that you'll probably have to smooth them off first with a cartridge roll on a die grinder to get really good results.  As-cast aluminum usually is too rough to polish up really well.  Use your own judgement here.  If a part has too many nooks and crannies, it'll be a nightmare to smooth and polish and will never look all that great.  If it's already pretty smooth, it could shine up with very little effort.


Repainting Old Parts, Touch-Up Painting
    Years of heat, vibration, sunlight, and chemicals tend to take the shine off of things.  A few cans of the correct spray paint, paired with the right cleaning and prep products and the effort to do things right, can make things look new again.
    Go over the car front to rear and see what needs attention.  If the paint is coming off the cam covers or air cleaner, they can be removed, cleaned thoroughly (again, Super Clean is a good choice), rinsed, dried, primed, and painted.  Things like brake boosters and master cylinders are a hassle to remove and replace, so they can be painted on the vehicle if nearby parts are properly masked off.  Brake calipers and drums, mufflers and exhaust pipes, window trim, wiper arms, door handles, grilles, etc are often a matte black, and almost always need a fresh coat of paint to look good.  For aluminum parts I always use self-etching (zinc chromate) primer because it seems to stick better than anything else I have found.
    Interiors suffer the effects of time, too.  Most plastic and vinyl interior parts can be detailed very nicely with professional dyes and paints.  Just as with exterior painting, interior parts need the correct cleaning, the right prep, and the right paints or dyes if they are to last.  If you do it right you can make a faded interior look nearly new again for a tiny fraction of the cost of replacing all those parts.


Applying Rubber/Vinyl Protectants
    This is an easy job.  Simply take your time and go over the entire vehicle with your favorite protectants, applying it to any appropriate surface.  As stated before, I like 303 for most plastic, rubber, and vinyl surfaces, but sometimes something a little thicker gives a more even gloss on larger parts like dash pads and bumper caps.  See what works best for you.


    By now you should know your car pretty well.  By following this list you will probably have it in the best shape it's going to be in without doing any major repairs.  Most cars can benefit at least a little from nearly every step in this list, and some can go from really ropey old deathtraps to tight cars that are safe and fun to drive.  Hopefully this article has given you some idea of where to start on your car and what to do to make it a useable car that is nicer to look at and to drive.  Have fun and be safe.