The Oldcorollas FAQ
An FAQ dealing with KE1x to KE7x Toyota Corollas
Supplement to http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/oldcorollas

KE1x and 2x discs are 200mm x 10mm. KE3x discs are 218mm x 10mm, KE70 discs are 218mm x 12mm.
The larger rotor provides more leverage for greater stopping power, the thicker disc provides better heat properties to resist brake fade.

The early cars had two types of Japanese calipers, PS type (small =O= looking piston body, open disc pad tops with large pad protector) and F type (small round piston body, closed disc pad cover with viewing hole). Aussie KE5x and KE70s had Girlock calipers, which can use brake pads from the rear of a VN Commodore (good if you are hunting for performance pads). Stock part number is DB1086, Commodore part number is DB1088.

All discs are all interchangeable (the Corolla hubs are the same except for wheel stud pattern), or if you change hubs as well, KE1x and 2x have smaller inner wheel bearings than the later cars. If changing from smaller disc to larger disc, you will need caliper mounts from a KE30 or KE55, as KE70 caliper plates have a different stud pattern. On most KE1x/2x cars, you will have to drill a tap the caliper mounting plates, as the later model plates use larger bolt holes to mount to the strut.

Alex Bates has written a nice howto for upgrading to KE30 brakes. If using KE70 brakes, use those discs and calipers instead.

These are the modifications I did to my 1968 KE10. Some of the points below are pretty basic but I thought I’d better include everything. I hope I haven’t missed anything!

Parts Required: 
	2x KE20 front wheel hubs
	(*MUST* be KE10/mazda stud pattern.)	About $20 each
	2x KE30 disc rotors.			Really good ones will cost about $40 each.
	2x KE30 disc calipers.			About $30 each.
	KE30 caliper/brake lines (rubber)	Will come with the calipers.
	2x KE30 caliper mounts/backing plates.	About $10 each.
	KE30 brake pads.			About $20 a set.
	Brake fluid of your choice		$7 - $80 depending on what you buy.
	KE10 wheel bearings (optional)		About $20 or so each. (you want to buy two)
Directions For Fitting:
1. Attach KE30 disc rotors to KE20 wheel hubs. This is by four 12mm or 14mm bolts. Make sure you do them up nice and tight.
2. Disconnect the brake lines to the front drum.
3. Remove the outer part of your front drum brake.
4. Prise off the locknut cover with a flat head screwdriver. This is the big knobby thing right there in the middle.
5. There should be four bolts within the brake assembly holding the assembly to the stub axle. Undo them.
6. Use a pair of pliers to remove the retaining pin from the locknut and undo it.
7. Remove drum assembly from car.

You should now be left with the drum assembly off the car and a front strut with no brakes on it. Now is a good time to replace wheel bearings.

8. Attach the backing plate to the four bolts that previously held the drum to the strut.
9. Get the hub/disc assembly you put together a few minutes ago.
10. Put this new assembly onto the stub axle.
11. Fit the locknut but not tight and don’t bother fitting the retaining pin yet.
12. Attach the caliper (and new pads) to the backing plate and over the disc.
13. Hook up the KE30 brake line onto the bracket on the KE10 strut (this will screw straight in).
14. Do up the locknut so the wheel will rotate freely but without wobbling around. Also put in the retaining pin.
15. Fit the wheel and do the same to the other side of the car.
16. Check all your bolts to make sure you did them up tight!
17. Bleed the brake system.
18. Do a test drive (drive slowly) to make sure everything works alright.
19. Don’t forget to be gentle on the brakes for a few days to let them bed in too.

The whole upgrade will be very cheap if you can buy all the parts at one place.